Healthy Homes Standards NZ: Complete Landlord Compliance Guide (2026)
New Zealand's Healthy Homes Standards require all private rental properties to meet five minimum standards covering heating, insulation, ventilation, moisture and drainage, and draught stopping. The compliance deadline for private rentals was 1 July 2025 - meaning all rental properties must already comply. If yours does not, you are currently in breach and at risk of a fine of up to $7,200 per breach.
This guide covers all five standards in one place. References: Tenancy Services - Healthy Homes Standards and the Healthy Homes Standards Regulations 2019.
Standard 1: Heating
Your rental property must have a fixed heater in the main living room capable of heating the room to at least 18°C. The required heating capacity in kilowatts depends on the room size, ceiling height, window area, and climate zone. MBIE provides an online calculator at tenancy.govt.nz to work out the minimum kW for any given room.
Compliant heaters include heat pumps (most common), fixed wall-mounted electric panel heaters, wood burners in good condition, and flued gas heaters permanently installed. Portable heaters do not count. Unflued gas heaters do not count. An open fireplace counts only if it has adequate output calculated using the MBIE formula.
For most NZ landlords, a heat pump is the practical answer. A mid-range unit for a typical living room costs $2,000 to $3,500 supply and installed, and provides both heating and cooling. When sizing, check that the rated heating capacity meets or exceeds the MBIE-calculated requirement for the specific room.
Open-plan kitchen and living areas require the calculation to cover the combined space. The standard applies to the main living room only, not every room in the property.
Standard 2: Insulation
All rental properties must have insulation meeting minimum R-values in the ceiling and underfloor (where the subfloor is accessible).
- Ceiling insulation: R2.9 minimum in the North Island, R3.3 in the South Island (including Nelson, Marlborough, and Tasman)
- Underfloor insulation: R1.3 in both islands, where the subfloor space is accessible (at least 400mm of clearance is required for the space to count as accessible)
Properties on concrete slabs do not require underfloor insulation. If your subfloor space is shallower than 400mm, you are exempt from the underfloor requirement, but document this clearly.
R-values measure thermal resistance. These are installed R-values, which may differ from the product's rated value once it compresses or ages. Old batts from the 1980s may have been rated R2.2 when new but are effectively lower now. An insulation installer can assess existing product for you - many do free assessments. Topping up over existing batts is often cheaper than full replacement.
Keep documentation: quotes, invoices, product specifications. You must include insulation details in the Healthy Homes compliance statement for every tenancy agreement.
Standard 3: Ventilation
The ventilation standard requires three things:
- Kitchens: An extractor fan or rangehood that exhausts to the outside. Recirculating rangehoods that filter and return air to the kitchen do not meet the standard. Check that any existing ducting actually exits the building and is not blocked or disconnected in the roof space.
- Bathrooms and toilets: Either an extractor fan that exhausts to the outside, or a window or skylight opening directly to the outside (not to an enclosed balcony). A fan that exhausts into the roof cavity does not meet the standard.
- All habitable rooms: Windows or doors that open to the outside, with total openable area of at least 5% of the room's floor area. For a 15m² bedroom, that is 0.75m² of openable window. A standard double-hung window (roughly 900mm x 1200mm) typically meets this, provided it actually opens and is not painted or sealed shut.
Typical remediation costs: adding or replacing a bathroom extractor fan costs $150 to $300 including labour. Upgrading a kitchen rangehood to a ducted model costs $300 to $800. These are modest sums compared to the potential fine for non-compliance.
Standard 4: Moisture and Drainage
The moisture and drainage standard requires:
- Effective drainage: Gutters, downpipes, and stormwater drainage must remove water effectively from the roof, site, and exterior. Blocked gutters, disconnected downpipes, or poor site drainage that causes pooling near the foundation are non-compliant.
- No water ingress: No moisture must enter through the roof, exterior walls, or subfloor. Check for water staining on interior walls or ceilings, leaking roofs or skylights, and any signs of past flooding under the house.
- Subfloor vapour barrier: If the property has a suspended timber floor with an accessible subfloor space, a polythene vapour barrier must cover the ground underneath the house. Minimum thickness is 0.25mm. The barrier must be lapped and secured so it stays in place. Existing barriers should be inspected for tears or gaps - old plastic sheeting can degrade and may need replacing.
Note the distinction: the standard addresses moisture ingress from outside. Condensation generated by occupants is addressed through the ventilation standard (extractor fans and openable windows). Both work together to prevent mould.
A compliance check for moisture and drainage means: inspecting gutters and downpipes; inspecting the subfloor space (or getting a quote from an insulation or building company); checking interior walls and ceilings for staining; and checking the roof for missing tiles or flashing issues. Photograph what you find. Document the remediation.
Standard 5: Draught Stopping
The draught stopping standard requires that the property has no unreasonable gaps or holes in walls, ceilings, floors, windows, or doors that allow draughts. The word "unreasonable" matters: some air infiltration is normal and useful. The standard targets excessive gaps, not making the building airtight.
Common sources of draught in NZ homes:
- Gaps around window frames and door frames, particularly sash windows and older door frames
- Gaps around pipes, cables, or other services penetrating walls or floors
- Open or unused fireplaces that draw cold air down the chimney
- Gaps at skirting boards or where walls meet floors
Fixes are mostly low-cost and DIY-friendly:
- Door and window gaps: weatherstrip tape or rubber door seals. Cost $10 to $30 per door or window.
- Service penetrations: expanding foam sealant or silicone around pipes and cables. Cost $15 to $25 per can.
- Open fireplace: a fireplace balloon (inflatable block) or a timber board sealed into the firebox opening. Cost $40 to $80.
- Skirting board gaps: flexible caulk along the bottom of skirting boards. Cost $10 to $20 per tube.
Most draught stopping work costs $100 to $200 for a whole property, making this the cheapest of the five standards to address.
Healthy Homes Compliance Statement
Every new tenancy agreement must include a Healthy Homes compliance statement that confirms whether each of the five standards is met, and if not, when the property will comply. All private rentals must already comply. The statement goes into the tenancy agreement at the start of every new tenancy.
For each standard, record the specific details: heater type and capacity, insulation R-values and installation date, extractor fan locations and installation dates, vapour barrier condition and inspection date, and any draught stopping remediation done. Keep documentation - quotes, invoices, inspection reports.
Checklist: Quick Compliance Audit
- Heating: Is there a fixed heater in the main living room? Do you know its rated kW? Does it meet the MBIE calculation for the room?
- Ceiling insulation: What R-value? Does it meet R2.9 (North Island) or R3.3 (South Island)?
- Underfloor insulation: Is the subfloor accessible? If yes, is R1.3 installed?
- Kitchen ventilation: Is there a ducted rangehood or extractor fan that exhausts outside?
- Bathroom ventilation: Is there an extractor fan to outside, or a window opening outside?
- Window openings: In each habitable room, does openable window area exceed 5% of floor area?
- Gutters and drainage: Are gutters clear? Do downpipes discharge away from the foundation?
- Vapour barrier: If suspended timber floor and accessible subfloor, is there a polythene barrier in good condition?
- No water ingress: Any signs of leaking roof, seeping walls, or rising damp?
- Draught stopping: Any gaps around doors, windows, pipes, or unused fireplaces?
If you manage your own properties, RentManager lets you track compliance status for each Healthy Homes standard per property, set reminders for inspections, and keep photo records. Start at $9/month at rentmanager.nz.
Nick Georgiev, RentManager NZ
Nick bought his first investment property at 22, his first in NZ in 2014, and has been self-managing four Auckland apartments since 2019. He built RentManager because spreadsheets and paper forms were not cutting it.